I gave my Dremel the finger. . .
Saddle Routing Fixture
© Frank Ford,4/25/98; Photos by FF, 1997


This is pretty simple stuff, but you'd be surprised how long I went without it!

The problem: How can you rout a saddle slot and control the width precisely?

My answer: Make the router base adjustable.


This is my Dremel mounted on its base. I've been using this tool since it was new, and it's served me well these past 20 years or so:

I have a simple light taped to the body and the standard cheapo router base with an acrylic bottom. The base is adjustable for height but I never adjust it. I don't trust it to go up and down perpendicular to the base, so if I want to adjust the depth of cut I always just raise or lower the bit in the collet. That way I'm positive of alignment.

My bridge routing fixture is a simple aluminum base with an area cut out to clear the bridge, and an adjustable fence.

Notice the adjustable finger on the right edge of the router base.

Here's the big deal up really close:
It is just a piece of acrylic with slots and screws to secure it.


I'll set my angle with the fence and rout my cut into the bridge, taking a couple of passes to get the depth just right.

Then, I'll check the width of the slot, and if necessary, adjust the finger on my router base to widen it a little. My adjustments are quite easy to control because the finger is way off to the side, and the cutter is about in the middle. That way I know I'll move the finger twice the distance I want to widen the slot:


Nothing like it for fitting up to a specific saddle dimension. It's especially handy when the 1/8" saddle in question really measures 0.121" or something crazy like that.



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